SeaDAN on the Chesapeake: Murphy’s Law, Crushes & 41 Years Together

It had been more than a month since Deb and I had given everyone an update from the Loop, and somehow those weeks had disappeared in a hurry.

As we sat aboard SeaDAN in St. Michaels, Maryland, looking back over everything that had happened since late August, one thing was obvious:

We had covered a lot of water.

We had explored the Chesapeake Bay, discovered some incredible little towns, made new friends, dodged thunderstorms, bounced through rough water, hit bottom, broke a few things, drank our share of Maryland Crushes, welcomed a new granddaughter into the world—and celebrated 41 years of marriage.

Not bad for a few weeks on the water.

And after all this time on the Great Loop, we’ve learned something else.

Murphy is apparently traveling with us.

Back in the Water—and Back on Plane

We left the Atlantic Yacht Basin around noon on August 24, finally beginning our journey north toward the Chesapeake.

Our first destination was the Hampton area, about a four-hour cruise away.

Naturally, we couldn’t just leave without a little delay.

We needed fuel and a pump-out before going through the Great Bridge Lock, and we missed the opening by about five minutes. That meant sitting around for another hour.

Then, right on cue, a huge barge showed up. Of course it did.

They wanted us in the lock with them, so in we went.

Eventually, though, we were back underway—and that’s when something happened that we’d been waiting a long time to see.

SeaDAN got back up on plane. Yay!

After having our transmissions and diesel engines worked on, this was the first real test. Before the repairs, we weren’t getting enough RPMs to lift this big beast out of the water.

This time, she did it. That was a great feeling.

Even better, when we checked the engine room later, everything looked exactly as it should. No leaks. No water in the fuel. Nothing alarming.

Warships, Submarines and a Lonely Anchorage

Heading north past Norfolk was spectacular.

Neither of us had traveled this far north by boat before, and cruising past the massive naval shipyards was something to see. Huge Navy ships, container ships and all kinds of marine traffic surrounded us.

That evening, we anchored in the Mill Creek/Phoebus area. It wasn’t exactly our favorite anchorage.

There was a busy bridge nearby, an underwater cable we had to watch for, and we were the only boat anchored there. Our navigation charts also showed a restricted area nearby, which didn’t exactly make us feel more comfortable.

Then we noticed something on Marine Traffic. A submarine was cruising nearby. Now that was cool.

Marine Traffic shows AIS information for vessels around you, so we could see where ships were coming from, where they were headed and how fast they were traveling.

Sitting alone at anchor while watching a submarine cruise past isn’t exactly something we did back home in Cincinnati.

“Going Faster Will Make It Smoother”

The next morning was windy, so we waited until around noon for conditions to settle before heading farther up the Chesapeake.

The water was still rolling. We had wind coming from the north and current coming from the south, producing a choppy two-foot sea.

That’s when I came up with one of my brilliant boating ideas. Maybe if we went faster, the ride would be smoother.

It wasn’t. Instead, we broke shit.

Our ceramic shark broke. A coffee mug went flying. Deb’s LEGO flowers crashed down and scattered into pieces. Going faster definitely didn’t solve the problem.

Then our Raymarine electronics started flickering on and off. Because apparently the broken shark and LEGO flowers weren’t enough.

Eventually I traced the problem to the power connections, cleaned everything up, and got the electronics working properly again.

While out shopping we found a sign that seemed to summarize life aboard SeaDAN perfectly:

“Murphy’s Law: Nothing is as easy as it looks. Everything takes longer than you expect. And anything that can go wrong will go wrong—at the worst possible moment.“

We probably should have bought two of them!

The Best Anchorage Ever

After about four hours of getting beaten around, we turned toward Deltaville and entered the Piankatank River.

Then we found Fishing Bay.

It was magnificent.

Deb immediately declared it the best anchorage we’d ever visited—which she tends to do whenever we find someplace beautiful.

But this time she had a pretty good argument.

The water was perfectly calm. Cute houses surrounded the cove. A couple of catamarans were anchored nearby.

And dolphins were playing in the water.

We gave Fishing Bay a 10 out of 10.

After the day we’d just had, sitting quietly at anchor while dolphins swam around SeaDAN was exactly what we needed.

North to the Solomons

The next morning we did something very unusual. We got moving early. Those who know us understand just how impressive that is.

By 8:30 a.m., we were underway toward Solomons, Maryland. It was sunny, about 78 degrees, with calm winds and smooth water.

In other words, a perfect cruising day.

Around noon, we crossed the Potomac River. Turning to port and following it upstream would eventually take you toward Washington, D.C.

But the Potomac demanded our attention.

One enormous cargo ship was heading south while another was approaching from behind us. We moved out of the channel and let the big boys have it.

Around 2:30 that afternoon, we entered Solomons and pulled into Spring Cove Marina. We immediately loved the place.

Katie, one of the dockhands, greeted us and helped with our lines. She ended up helping us throughout our stay. The marina had a large swimming pool, bar, private showers, picnic areas, bikes, a courtesy car, golf-cart shuttle service—and pump-outs right at the slips.

But the most important discovery came shortly afterward. We discovered the Maryland Crush.

Discovering the Crush

We dropped the dinghy and headed to the famous Tiki Bar. That’s where we were introduced to Crushes. Orange Crush. Grapefruit Crush. Key Lime Crush. Vodka, fresh juice, Sprite and whatever other magic they put in those things.

Deb was happy with the Crushes. I got a Jameson on the rocks. Everybody wins.

One of our favorite things about traveling is sitting at a bar and talking to the people around us. We’ve met some fascinating people that way.

At the Tiki Bar, we started talking to a couple and eventually discovered they were part owners. Naturally, we became friends.

The next night they invited us back and got us into a concert featuring the Amish Outlaws. We sat at their table and rocked out late into the night.

Just another quiet evening on the Great Loop.

History, Otters and a Lighthouse

We spent three nights in Solomons and managed to visit what felt like nearly every restaurant in town.

We also visited the Calvert Marine Museum and toured the Drum Point Lighthouse.

The museum had everything from paleontology exhibits to a Megalodon shark skeleton.

And otters. Live otters. They’d swim around their tank, come up to the glass and show off for everyone watching.

Eventually Sunday morning arrived and it was time to move again.

Our original plan was to stop in Deale. But the weather was beautiful. The water was calm. So I looked at Deb and suggested we keep going. Let’s go all the way to Annapolis.

I’m glad we did.

Welcome to Annapolis

The trip took about six hours.

Unfortunately, we’d forgotten one important detail. It was Sunday. And apparently every sailboat on the Chesapeake had decided to go sailing. They were everywhere.

Sailboats behave differently than powerboats, and when you’re surrounded by them, you really have to pay attention. They’re crossing in front of you, changing direction and seemingly appearing from everywhere.

Then, at exactly the wrong moment, our Raymarine electronics started acting up again. Murphy had returned.

We were entering the Severn River and trying to turn into Weems Creek. Boats were coming toward us. Boats were behind us.

For just a moment, I took my eyes off the depth. That was enough. Thunk. We touched bottom.Then the props hit again.

We managed to get through the shallow area and anchor safely, but it was an anxious few minutes.

Once settled, I put on the dive gear, went underneath SeaDAN and checked the props.

Thankfully, there was no damage.

Another lesson learned: When you’re navigating narrow channels with shallow water, you can’t afford to be distracted—even for a few seconds.

Ego Alley and the Naval Academy

The next morning we took the dinghy into downtown Annapolis. We cruised through the narrow waterway known as Ego Alley and tied up near the heart of historic Annapolis.

Cobblestone streets. Old buildings. Shops. Restaurants. It was exactly the kind of place we love exploring.

That afternoon we had scheduled a walking tour of the U.S. Naval Academy.

It was incredible.

Seeing the midshipmen in uniform, watching the formations and salutes, and experiencing all the tradition surrounding the Academy gave me goosebumps.

Our guide took us through the chapel, showed us the crypt of John Paul Jones and even showed us what the dormitory rooms look like.

The history of the Academy—and the list of people who have walked those halls—is extraordinary.

If you’re ever in Annapolis, put the Naval Academy on your list.

A Toast to Harry

We spent three days anchored near Annapolis.

The following day, we wandered through the boutiques and toured the Maryland State House.

The history there is incredible. Annapolis briefly served as the capital of the United States, and George Washington resigned his military commission there.

Afterward, we did what we often seem to do. We found an Irish pub. Galway Bay.

And then we found something even more special.

Harry’s Bar.

Harry was Deb’s father’s name. Whenever Deb and I find a Harry’s Bar somewhere in our travels, we stop. We go inside. We order a drink. And we toast Dad and share some memories. Since he was a midshipman himself, having served in the Navy during the Korean War, that’s exactly what we did in Annapolis.

Fuel or Thunderstorms?

Our next destination was Baltimore.

Unfortunately, thunderstorms were forecast to arrive around 2 p.m.

We also needed diesel.

So I gave Deb a choice. “Would you rather have fuel—or would you rather go through thunderstorms?” That didn’t take long for her. “Forget the fuel” says her (that’s pirate talk.)

Once underway, I realized the weather was approaching faster than I liked, so I put SeaDAN on plane and started running around 18 or 19 knots.

We were throwing a pretty impressive wake.

Then Deb’s phone rang. It was Lani and Jeff on the LaniKai, friends we’d met in Fort Pierce the previous year. They had been cruising nearby when they saw SeaDAN blasting along and throwing out a massive wake.

Apparently their first reaction was something along the lines of: “Look at this asshole!”

Then they realized it was us. SeaDAN. Busted. They caught up with us, and even better, they were heading to the same place we were—Anchorage Marina in Baltimore.

Then the Coast Guard came over Channel 16. Severe thunderstorms were approaching. Now we were racing the weather.

We pulled into our slip at approximately 12:47.

Around 1:00, the sky exploded. The storm hit with winds around 65 miles per hour.

We were very happy to be tied securely to a dock.

Fuel could wait.

A Very Important Trip Home

We spent time with Lonnie and Jeff, caught up over Mexican food and laughed about our adventures.

Then it was time to leave SeaDAN for a while.

We flew home to Cincinnati for one of the most important events of this entire journey.

On September 8, our granddaughter Juniper was born.

We spent a couple of weeks at home helping the kids, getting everyone settled and falling in love with our newest family member. Our first girl!!

Then, on September 28, it was time to return to SeaDAN.

The Loop was waiting.

Back to Baltimore

We arrived back in Baltimore early Monday morning. Naturally, the first thing we did was take naps. We were up at 4:00 to catch a 6:00 flight!

The next day, after some needed rest, we visited the National Aquarium.

It was impressive, with exhibits seemingly descending deeper and deeper into the water as you moved through the building. Sharks. Fish. Marine life everywhere.

There were dolphins, too. The aquarium no longer does traditional dolphin shows, but we were able to watch them swim and play.

We also explored Fells Point and—because apparently we are contractually obligated to find one in every city—found another Irish pub.

The James Joyce.

Fish and chips for Deb. Kilkenny’s for me. My favorite Irish nitro beer!

Baltimore has some wonderful areas, but like any big city, there are places where you need to stay aware of your surroundings.

We enjoyed our visit, but soon it was time to leave the western side of the Chesapeake and see what was waiting on the Eastern Shore.

Crossing the Bay

On October 1, we pulled away from Baltimore.

Even leaving the harbor turned into an experience.

A tugboat came up behind us, so we moved aside to let it pass. Then an enormous cargo ship approached from the opposite direction.

We watched the tug maneuver alongside the cargo ship and help guide it toward the inner harbor.

Watching those boats work together up close was fascinating.

Then we pointed SeaDAN east and headed across the Chesapeake toward Rock Hall, Maryland.

Duck Bucks and No Plans

Rock Hall turned out to be one of those places where having absolutely no plan produced one of our best days.

First, though, SeaDAN needed diesel. Rock Hall, Maryland: No Plans, Just Exploring

By the time we pulled into Rock Hall North Point Marina, one thing was at the top of our list: fuel.

SeaDAN had been running a little too close to empty for our comfort, so filling the tanks enough to give ourselves some breathing room felt pretty good. What didn’t feel quite as good was the price.

Diesel was $6.30 a gallon.

We put about 230 gallons into the tanks—and that only brought us up to roughly half full. We tried not to think too much about the bill. Sometimes boating is better when you don’t do the math.

With SeaDAN safely tied up at Rock Hall Landing Marina and enough fuel in the tanks to continue our Chesapeake adventure, it was time to do what we really enjoy.

Explore.

And Rock Hall turned out to be exactly our kind of place.

Duck Bucks and Our First Stop

Rock Hall Landing Marina was a great find. One of the fun little perks they offered was something called “Duck Bucks,”which gave marina guests discounts at some of the local restaurants and bars.

Naturally, we considered it our responsibility to put them to good use. Burp!

Our first stop was Waterman’s Crab House, right near the marina, where we kicked things off with a cocktail. From there, we wandered over to the Harbor Shack Bar & Grill, and before long, what had started as a simple afternoon of looking around had turned into one of those completely unplanned nights that we always seem to enjoy the most.

There was no itinerary. No reservations. No real plan at all.

Just two people wandering around Rock Hall to see what we could find.

The Youngest People in the Room

At some point, we heard music coming from an old building in a little strip mall. That was enough to get our attention.

We walked inside The Mainstay and discovered a live band playing what sounded like jazz. The place had a great atmosphere, although it didn’t take us long to notice something else.

We were probably the youngest people in the room.

By a long shot.

That didn’t bother us one bit.

We grabbed a couple of cocktails, found a place to sit and started enjoying the music. It was around seven o’clock, and we figured we’d stumbled onto the perfect place to spend part of the evening.

About thirty minutes later, the musicians started packing up.

“Wait. We just got here!”

Apparently, we’d missed one important detail. The music started at 5:00 and ended at 7:30. Old people… HA!

Even on a Thursday night. So much for that plan. Not that we really had one.

Wine, Backgammon, and a Little Humiliation

After getting politely booted out with the rest of the crowd, we headed across the street and discovered a wine bar.

It was one of those comfortable little places filled with couches, chairs and conversation areas that almost begged you to settle in for a while.

Then Chris spotted something in a back corner.

A coffee table. And a backgammon board. Game on.

We ordered a flight of red wines, sat down and started playing.

It did not go particularly well for Deb.

Chris proceeded to kick her butt so badly that she didn’t manage to get a single checker into her home board. Of course, Chris claims this was due entirely to his tremendous backgammon skills.

Deb remembers him rolling an awful lot of doubles.

Either way, it didn’t matter. We laughed, drank our wine and had a blast.

It was turning into another one of those nights where we just stumble from one place to another with absolutely no plan—and somehow those are often the best nights of all.

We call it exploring.

The Browns, Beer, and a Dark Ride Home

From the wine bar, our exploration eventually led us to Rock Hall Brewing Company, a little farther down the street.

One detail we probably should mention: We were doing all of this on bicycles.

At the brewery, we settled in to watch Thursday Night Football and cheer for the Cleveland Browns.

And they won!

That seemed like a perfectly good reason to celebrate a little longer. By the time we finally decided to head back to SeaDAN, it was around 10:30 at night.

That’s when we realized we had a small problem. No headlights. No helmets. And, naturally, we were wearing our usual dark clothes. Not exactly the smartest setup for a nighttime bicycle ride.

So we walked the bikes down the busier part of town. Once we reached the long, quiet road leading back toward the marina, we finally climbed aboard and started pedaling.

We rode right down the middle of the road. And amazingly, not one car came from either direction the entire way back.

Somebody was looking out for us that night.

We made it safely back to SeaDAN, climbed aboard and slept very well.

Although one of us felt considerably better than the other when it was time to get up the next morning. Damn Jamison!

We’ll leave it at that.

On to St. Michaels

The next morning, we continued south along the eastern side of the Chesapeake toward St. Michaels, Maryland.

We arrived on Friday, October 2, and almost immediately liked what we found.

St. Michaels is another beautiful little Chesapeake town filled with shops, restaurants, jewelry stores, bars, microbreweries and distilleries. It’s a little more polished—and maybe a little more expensive—than some of the towns we’d visited.

For our Cincinnati friends, think of it as having a bit of a Hyde Park feel.

Unfortunately, the weather didn’t exactly cooperate. We had two days of rain.

But we’ve learned something on this trip: bad weather doesn’t have to mean a bad day. So we kept exploring.

A Day at the Maritime Museum

One of our best stops was the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, where we ended up spending a good part of the day.

We weren’t sure how long we’d stay when we walked in, but it turned out to be fascinating.

We learned about the boats that have worked these waters for generations, how they were built and how the Chesapeake’s oyster and crab industries shaped the lives of the people who lived here.

We climbed into the lighthouse and learned more about the region’s history, including its connections to the Underground Railroad and the stories of enslaved people who traveled through the area seeking freedom.

The museum also helped bring to life the story of Frederick Douglass, who was born on Maryland’s Eastern Shore.

Standing there, surrounded by the Chesapeake, made all of that history feel much closer than simply reading about it in a book.

But one of our favorite museum moments had nothing to do with an exhibit.

Near the water were tanks containing Chesapeake blue crabs. Two young boys were nearby with nets, happily catching crabs and helping stock the tanks.

Every once in a while, a crab would stubbornly grab onto the net and refuse to let go, leaving the boys shaking and bouncing the nets while a small crowd watched.

They were having an absolute ball.

And watching them was one of those simple little moments that made us smile.

The Bikes Have a Mind of Their Own

The next day, we climbed back on the bikes and found a beautiful trail that wound for about three miles through the woods.

It was quiet, peaceful and a great way to see a different side of St. Michaels.

Eventually, though, we started heading back toward town.

And that’s when we saw it.

A sign that said:

BEER.

Strangely enough, both bicycles immediately stopped.

We have no explanation for it.

Since the bikes clearly wanted to stop, we figured we shouldn’t argue. We pulled into the brewery and enjoyed a beer before continuing toward Talbot Street.

Once we reached the busier part of town, we mostly walked the bikes. Between the sidewalks, pedestrians and traffic, we figured that was probably the safer option. For the pedestrians!

We’d already pushed our luck enough in Rock Hall.

Celebrating Our Anniversary

That evening was especially meaningful because it was our anniversary.

After several days of bicycles, breweries, museums, rainstorms and spontaneous exploring, we cleaned ourselves up and headed to Limoncello, a wonderful little Italian restaurant in St. Michaels.

It was the perfect way to end the day—and a pretty good way to celebrate another year together.

Sitting there over dinner, we couldn’t help thinking about how much had already happened on this trip.

Some of the best memories weren’t things we’d planned weeks or months ahead.

They were the places we wandered into because we heard music.

The wine bar we found after getting kicked out of a jazz club at 7:30.

The backgammon game in a corner.

The beer sign that somehow stopped our bicycles.

The two boys wrestling blue crabs from their nets.

And the nighttime bike ride back to SeaDAN when the road, thankfully, belonged entirely to us.

Those are the moments we seem to remember.

South Again

Tomorrow morning, we’ll say goodbye to St. Michaels and continue south.

We’re heading back toward Solomons, but this time we’re planning to anchor instead of staying at a marina.

Our goal is to make it back to the Norfolk area by the middle of the month. From there, we’ll fly home for a couple of weeks, spend Halloween with family and friends, and then return to SeaDAN around the middle of November.

After that, we’ll point the bow south again and begin chasing warmer weather for the winter.

Where exactly will we end up? We’re not completely sure. And that’s becoming one of our favorite parts of this adventure.

For now, we’re enjoying the Chesapeake, discovering little towns we’d never really known before and learning that sometimes the best days are the ones when we wake up without much of a plan.

We’ll just keep exploring and see where SeaDAN takes us next.

— Chris & Deb

After a month away from the podcast, we are finally back, and we have a lot of miles, mishaps, and maritime adventures to catch up on.

When we last checked in, we were enjoying a family vacation in Myrtle Beach. Since then, we have been moving steadily north aboard SeaDAN, traveling from the Carolinas all the way to Portsmouth, Virginia. Our goal was to reach the Chesapeake by the end of June.

For once, we were ahead of schedule.

Of course, getting here involved a damaged propeller, a dead battery, multiple soft groundings, gusty anchorages, military firing ranges, one unfortunate encounter between a dock line and a propeller, a terrifying thunderstorm, a rough crossing, several bridges, a lock, and some of the best fireworks we have ever seen.

You know, normal boating stuff.

The Propeller Surprise

Before leaving Myrtle Beach Yacht Club, we decided it would be smart to have a diver inspect and clean the bottom of SeaDAN. Nobody had looked at it since the boat was out of the water in Jacksonville last October, and Chris had been having trouble consistently getting her up on plane.

The diver returned with good news and bad news.

The good news was that the bottom was clean.

The bad news was that one of our propellers had a ding in it.

Our best guess is that it happened during our soft grounding before Hells Gate. The Intracoastal Waterway does not offer much room for creative navigation. Sometimes being only a foot or two outside the channel is enough to introduce the boat to the bottom.

Thankfully, the diver could remove the propellers without hauling SeaDAN out of the water. His family helped take them to Wilmington for repairs, and the entire operation delayed us by only four days.

Not bad, considering the alternative.

Attempt Number Two: The Battery Says No

With the repaired propellers back in place, we prepared to leave on June 5. Chris turned the ignition, and the starboard engine responded with absolutely nothing useful.

The large starter battery was no longer holding a charge. Fortunately, Chris had a spare 12-volt deep-cycle battery aboard and was able to temporarily connect it and get the engine running.

We finally pulled away around 1:30 p.m. and entered a Friday-afternoon parade of powerboats, jet skis, kayaks, and seemingly every other floating object in South Carolina.

Rather than fight the traffic all day, we made the 37-mile trip to Southport, North Carolina, arriving around 5:30 p.m.

The wind made backing into the slip interesting. Chris got the stern between the pilings on the first attempt, but the wind grabbed the bow before the boat was fully in position. He pulled back out, reset, and nailed it on the second attempt.

No damage, no yelling, and only one redo. We are counting that as a win.

Southport Hospitality

We quickly fell in love with Southport.

Dockhands Roger and Nick went out of their way to help us, and the marina allowed us to stay through Monday while weekend boat traffic passed.

We also met two local AGLCA legends, Robert and Kay Creech. They keep an eye out for Loopers arriving in Southport and invited us to spend an evening on their porch.

We talked for hours, shared stories, laughed, and reviewed a detailed presentation about the route from Southport to Norfolk. Their advice gave us a much better idea of what to expect during the next portion of our trip.

Chris also used the downtime to change the engine oil. SeaDAN has a Reverso oil-change system, which pumps the old oil out and pulls the new oil in. The hardest part is convincing the filters to cooperate.

On Monday morning, we prepared to leave again.

The battery still said no.

The temporary battery had done its job, but the original starter battery was finished. These batteries weigh around 120 pounds, so replacing one in the engine room is not exactly a one-person project.

Robert recommended To You Marine Services. Jason and Adam delivered a replacement, wrestled it into position, and got everything running. We departed only about an hour later than planned.

By boating standards, that practically counts as leaving on time.

Windy Nights and Dolphin Welcomes

Our next stop was an anchorage near Wrightsville Beach. It was a short, pleasant run, and SeaDAN even got up on plane as we crossed Cape Fear!

The anchorage was beautiful, but gusts reached nearly 28 miles per hour. We installed the anchor bridle and spent the night listening for alarms.

The anchor held perfectly.

We also filmed a video showing how we attach the bridle. Please forgive the wind noise. We are boaters, not a professional television crew.

The following day, we traveled about 40 miles to Mile Hammock Bay. On the way in, we experienced another soft grounding near the New River. We were following established tracks, but shoaling had pushed farther into the channel.

Fortunately, it was only sand, and we were quickly moving again.

When we arrived at the anchorage, a pod of approximately six dolphins was feeding around the boat. It was a much better welcome committee than the sandbar.

Mile Hammock Bay sits near Camp Lejeune, a Marine Corp military training area, and by evening eight to ten boats had gathered in the anchorage. We enjoyed a calm evening, watched television, played Five Crowns, and settled into another peaceful night on the hook.

Bridges, Currents, and a Live Firing Range

The next morning, we had to time our departure around The Onslow Bridge opening. We arrived early and spent several minutes fighting the current while waiting.

After passing through, we encountered a particularly comforting sign:

CAUTION: LIVE MILITARY FIRING RANGE. DO NOT PROCEED IF LIGHTS ARE FLASHING.

We had checked the schedule before leaving, so we knew no firing was planned. Still, seeing old tanks and military vehicles positioned as targets on the barrier island was slightly unsettling.

Nothing encourages careful radio communication quite like the possibility of becoming part of a military exercise.

Beaufort During the Big Rock Tournament

After navigating past Swansboro and Morehead City, we arrived in Beaufort during the Big Rock Blue Marlin Tournament.

We found a slip at Homer Smith Docks and Marina, although getting there required navigating confusing channel markers, dodging a fleet of small sailboats, and backing into a slip in 14- to 16-mile-per-hour winds.

Once docked, we headed into town.

Everyone recommended dinner at Aqua, but first we stopped at the nearby Backstreet Pub. Our bartender, Trisha, had been serving drinks for more than 30 years and was one of the funniest people we met during the trip. She had us crying with laughter.

The entire town was discussing a massive 919.9-pound blue marlin that had broken the North Carolina state record. With millions of dollars in tournament prize money at stake, we could understand why the anglers who had not yet gone fishing looked slightly discouraged.

The Dock Line Incident

Leaving Beaufort the next morning produced one of those boating stories that becomes funny only after everything is over.

The wind was blowing hard as we prepared to leave. Deb staged the dock lines aboard while dockhands helped release the bow and spring lines. Chris pulled away cleanly and began maneuvering toward the channel.

Then a dockhand yelled, “You’re dragging a line!”

Deb initially thought he meant something behind the dinghy. When she looked over the side, she realized one of the spring lines had fallen into the water.

She tried to pull it aboard.

It was tight.

That meant it had already reached the propeller.

Chris stopped the boat, the propeller chewed through the line, and Deb was able to retrieve what remained. We cautiously continued while asking the question every boater loves to hear:

“Do you feel a vibration?”

Thankfully, everything appeared to be functioning normally.

A Resort-Like Break at River Dunes

After crossing the wide Neuse River and surviving a massive wake from a passing sportfishing boat, we entered the narrow channel leading to River Dunes Marina near Oriental.

River Dunes felt more like a resort than a marina. It had a beautiful pool, an excellent restaurant, and exactly the kind of atmosphere we needed after five consecutive travel days.

We stayed an extra night, relaxed, and let SeaDAN remain in one place for a moment.

It was glorious.

Belhaven and the Storm That Came Out of Nowhere

Our next stop was Belhaven Marina, about 37 miles away.

Storms were predicted for later in the afternoon, so we departed at 9:00 a.m., which qualifies as extremely early in our household.

The trip across the Neuse, Pamlico, and Pungo rivers was calm and beautiful. Belhaven itself was a charming, sleepy little town that felt like something out of a Norman Rockwell painting.

The marina consisted largely of long concrete bulkheads rather than traditional slips. Its owner, Ken, had cashed in his retirement account to purchase the property and had spent the past two years building a welcoming stop for boaters.

The following afternoon, the sky changed.

Within minutes, a severe storm hit with reported winds of approximately 67 miles per hour. Rain came down so hard that we could not see SeaDAN from the marina office. Lightning flashed in every direction, hail fell, flags and canvas tore loose, and boats slammed against pilings.

One boat’s rub rail caught above a piling and was ripped away, leaving a hole in the side.

Around ten people huddled inside the marina office/bar watching the radar while water pushed beneath the door.

The worst of the storm lasted about 30 minutes. SeaDAN escaped without damage, but it was easily one of the scariest weather events we have experienced aboard.

Once the storm passed, we recovered in the most appropriate way possible: pizza at The Tavern at Jack’s Neck.

The Long Run to Coinjock

Weather dictated our next move. Tuesday offered the best opportunity to cross the Albemarle Sound, so we prepared for an 87-mile run from Belhaven to Coinjock.

We left at 7:00 a.m.

Yes, seven.

In the morning.

The Alligator River was already rough, which did not inspire confidence about conditions on the sound. We requested an opening at the Alligator River Bridge, provided our Coast Guard documentation number, and headed into open water.

The Albemarle Sound was rough, with two- to three-foot waves coming directly from the north. Fortunately, we could point SeaDAN’s bow into them, but spray repeatedly covered the windshield.

Deb filled a bucket with fresh water and rinsed the salt away so Chris could see.

After roughly an hour and a half of pounding through the waves, we reached calmer water and continued toward Coinjock.

Our overnight stop was a private dock at a beautiful home owned by Greg and Mary. They helped us tie up, adjusted our fenders, and offered to drive us into town for supplies.

Greg is also developing a new marina called the Landings of Coinjock, with plans for dockage, fuel, a restaurant, a ship store, and dry-stack storage. Boaters passing through the area should keep an eye on the project.

The established Coinjock Marina is already one of the best-known stops along this section of the ICW, and it sounds as though travelers may soon have another great option.

Racing Toward Norfolk

Our original plan was to stop at Atlantic Yacht Basin before reaching Norfolk.

Greg and Mary changed that plan when they told us about Sail250 Virginia, the enormous gathering of tall ships celebrating the 250th anniversary of the United States.

More than 60 ships representing countries from around the world were scheduled to arrive in the Chesapeake region.

We called Tidewater Yacht Marina in Portsmouth and asked whether we could arrive two days early.

Caitlin quickly responded and told us to come Wednesday. Friday would bring approximately 50 arriving boats and substantially more chaos.

We did not need to be told twice.

Bridges, Bridges, a Lock, and More Bridges

The final 50-mile trip took seven and a half hours.

The distance was not the problem. The bridges were.

Several highway and railroad bridges opened only at scheduled times. Both railroad bridges, which are normally open when trains are not passing, were closed when we arrived.

At the Great Bridge Bridge, we arrived around 12:30 p.m. and hovered in the current until its 1:00 p.m. opening.

Immediately afterward, we entered a lock.

It was Deb’s first lock, and thankfully it raised or lowered the boat by only about two feet. Compared with everything else we had experienced during the month, it was wonderfully uneventful.

At approximately 3:20 p.m., we reached Tidewater Yacht Marina in Portsmouth.

We had made it to the Chesapeake ahead of schedule.

Tall Ships and Fireworks in Norfolk

The next day, we climbed to the highest point on SeaDAN, unfolded our West Marine chairs, and watched the Sail250 boat parade.

It was incredible.

Tall ships, military vessels, training ships, and other vessels representing nations from around the world passed directly in front of us. Some stretched several hundred feet and carried towering masts filled with sails. Several of the ships also had their costumed crew standing on the lines, high in the air!

Visitors could later tour many of the vessels and see what life aboard these ships was like.

The weekend also included fireworks on both Friday and Saturday nights. Our marina was positioned close to the launching barge, so the fireworks exploded almost directly overhead.

They were the best fireworks either of us had ever seen.

Sail250 brought more than 60 ships from 20 nations to Virginia’s Chesapeake Bay region, so accidentally arriving early turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip.

What Comes Next?

Now we have a decision to make.

We could continue north and attempt to reach the Great Lakes, but we have a granddaughter arriving in mid-September. Pushing north would mean moving quickly, and reaching the Great Lakes would eventually require hauling SeaDAN out of the water, winterizing her, and preparing her for freezing conditions.

The other option is to spend the summer exploring the Chesapeake Bay.

Washington, D.C., Baltimore, and countless smaller destinations are all within reach. Many boaters spend years exploring the Chesapeake and still do not see everything.

At the moment, slowing down sounds pretty appealing.

Norfolk is also near the northern limit where we could reasonably keep SeaDAN in the water during winter before continuing the Great Loop next year.

We have not made the final decision yet, but we will share it during the next podcast.

Until then, we are celebrating the fact that we made it from Myrtle Beach to Norfolk with two functioning engines, repaired propellers, an intact boat, and only one slightly shorter dock line.

That feels like success!

Golf, Dolphins, Big Tides, and Family Adventures on the Great Loop

After a little break from podcasting, Chris and Deb Winnenberg are back aboard SeaDAN, catching everyone up on their latest stretch of the Great Loop from Hilton Head to Myrtle Beach. Their last update ended back on April 7th after arriving at Harbour Town Marina on Hilton Head Island, and this leg of the journey turned into one of those classic Looping chapters filled with family visits, unforgettable anchorages, golf, wildlife encounters, and a lot of laughter along the way.

Returning to Hilton Head by Boat

Hilton Head has always been a special place for Chris and Deb’s family. Growing up, family vacations often centered around Sea Pines Plantation, so arriving there aboard SeaDAN felt like a full-circle moment.

Staying at Harbour Town Marina during the RBC Heritage golf tournament made the stop even more memorable. The marina was alive with tournament energy, boats everywhere, and golf fans filling the waterfront.

The visit began with family time as cousins Kathy and Kevin visited the boat for happy hour before everyone headed to the famous Quarterdeck Restaurant overlooking the marina.

A Friendly Golf Rivalry

One highlight of the Hilton Head stop was golfing at Colleton River Golf Club with Kathy and Kevin. The foursome turned the round into a boys-versus-girls competition, and according to the official record, the girls won.

Naturally, Chris and Deb made sure the victory was permanently documented on the podcast.

The Hilton Head golf tour continued with rounds at Atlantic Dunes, Palmetto Dunes, and the Robert Trent Jones course near Shelter Cove. Atlantic Dunes turned into a battle against brutal coastal winds, with gusts strong enough to blow sand out of the bunkers and hats off golfers’ heads.

Still, that’s part of what makes golf on the South Carolina coast unforgettable.

Moving to Shelter Cove Marina

Because Harbour Town fills quickly during tournament week, SeaDAN relocated to Shelter Cove Harbour & Marina, tucked into Broad Creek on the interior side of Hilton Head Island.

In many ways, Chris and Deb ended up liking Shelter Cove even more.

The marina included complimentary bicycles, and Hilton Head’s extensive shaded bike trails made it easy to explore restaurants, waterfront bars, shops, and neighborhoods without ever needing a car.

The move also led to one of the coolest wildlife moments of the trip.

An Incredible Dolphin Encounter

While exploring by dinghy with Deb’s brother Dan, the crew experienced their closest dolphin encounter yet.

One juvenile dolphin swam directly toward the dinghy before turning sideways and pacing the boat only a few feet away. It rolled slightly onto its side and appeared to look directly at everyone aboard as it cruised alongside SeaDAN’s dinghy.

No one thought to grab a phone because everyone was too busy enjoying the moment.

Sometimes the best memories never make it onto video.

Anchoring Off the RBC Heritage

Watching the RBC Heritage tournament from the water had always been a bucket-list experience for Chris and Deb.

This year, they finally made it happen.

Chris and Deb were joined by lifelong friends, Connie and Mike, who came to visit from Utah!

SeaDAN joined dozens of boats anchored offshore near the famous 18th hole while spectators used water taxis to travel back and forth between the boats and Harbour Town Marina.

It became one of those uniquely “Great Loop” experiences — arriving somewhere not just by land, but by water, and seeing an iconic destination from an entirely different perspective.

Learning About Carolina Tides

Before leaving Hilton Head, the crew got a firsthand education in South Carolina tides.

The full moon created tidal swings approaching ten feet, dramatically changing water levels at the marina each day. At times, the dock ramps became so steep that simply hauling groceries back to the boat became an adventure of its own.

Eventually, the timing worked out and SeaDAN departed on a rising tide toward Charleston.

Rough Water Crossing Toward Charleston

The cruise initially started peacefully across Port Royal Sound with calm conditions and sunshine.

That changed quickly.

As SeaDAN entered St. Helena Sound and the Coosaw River area, conditions deteriorated into three- and four-foot breaking seas with whitecaps and spray coming over the windshield.

For an hour, the boat rolled heavily as Chris and Deb pushed through the roughest conditions they had experienced in a while.

Once through the sound, the crew tucked into a quiet anchorage on the South Edisto River for the evening.

A Perfect Anchoring Night

After the rough crossing, the calm anchorage felt perfect.

With cool spring temperatures settling into the 60s overnight, Chris and Deb were able to sleep comfortably with open windows and fans instead of running the generator for air conditioning.

The peaceful anchorage became one of those reminders of why they love life aboard SeaDAN.

Arriving in Charleston

SeaDAN eventually arrived at the famous Safe Harbor Charleston City Marina, home of the massive MegaDock.

The marina itself felt like a destination, surrounded by enormous yachts, giant pilings, strong tidal currents, and nonstop activity along the Ashley River.

One mega yacht even carried a Mini Cooper onboard using a crane system.

Only in Charleston.

Exploring the Historic City

After briefly flying home to Cincinnati for some house-related projects, Chris and Deb returned to Charleston and spent several rainy but enjoyable days exploring the city.

They visited:

• Charleston City Market
• Historic downtown Charleston
• The haunted horse-drawn carriage tour
• Waterfront restaurants and bars
• Marina happy hours with fellow boaters

Although Charleston felt more modern and spread out compared to Savannah, it slowly grew on them throughout the stay.

Touring the USS Yorktown

One of the biggest highlights in Charleston was visiting Patriots Point and touring the USS Yorktown.

Chris and Deb joined a captain’s tour led by an 89-year-old guide who navigated the ship’s ladders and passageways with incredible energy while sharing stories from his naval career.

The entire Patriots Point complex — including the USS Laffey destroyer and Vietnam Experience — turned out to be far more immersive and fascinating than expected.

Heading Toward Myrtle Beach

Leaving Charleston meant continuing north toward Myrtle Beach with a planned overnight anchorage near Georgetown.

The first stop was the South Santee River where SeaDAN shared an anchorage with fellow Loopers aboard Ella J and Sweet Surrender.

For the first time, Chris and Deb were welcomed into an anchorage over the radio by neighboring boaters.

That simple conversation instantly made the anchorage feel like a floating neighborhood.

Cruising the Waccamaw River

After passing Georgetown and fueling at Wacca Wache Marina, SeaDAN entered one of the most scenic stretches of the entire Loop so far: the Waccamaw River.

The river twisted through dense forests and cypress-lined banks that felt almost jungle-like.

Chris described it as cruising down a golf fairway made entirely of water.

The peaceful overnight anchorage in the Waccamaw Oxbow became another favorite stop of the trip.

Arriving in Myrtle Beach

SeaDAN’s first Myrtle Beach stop was Grande Dunes Marina where Chris and Deb were joined by Deb’s brother Don and sister-in-law Patty for their first overnight stay aboard the boat.

The week quickly filled with:

• Beach days
• Barefoot Landing
• Bar hopping
• Golf stories
• Card games
• Family dinners
• Plenty of laughs

According to Chris and Deb, Patty may have also set the all-time high score record during a game of Five Crowns.

The Myrtle Beach Classic

Mother’s Day included a trip to the Myrtle Beach Classic golf tournament where the group watched players finish on the 18th green from public bleachers.

The tournament atmosphere, beautiful weather, and easy access made for another memorable golf experience along the Loop.

Through the Rock Pile to Myrtle Beach Yacht Club

As weather moved into the area, Chris and Deb decided to relocate SeaDAN early to Myrtle Beach Yacht Club in Little River.

That cruise included passage through the famous “Rock Pile,” one of the more talked-about sections of the Intracoastal Waterway.

Fortunately, the transit turned out to be straightforward by simply staying centered in the marked channel.

Along the way, SeaDAN also passed Barefoot Landing from the water and navigated the Captain Archie Neil “Poo” McLauchlin Swing Bridge after a brief delay caused by radio issues with the bridge tender.

Eventually, SeaDAN settled into Myrtle Beach Yacht Club, complete with a pool, waterfront restaurants, and easy access to local attractions.

Family Time Aboard SeaDAN

The best part of Myrtle Beach, though, wasn’t the marina or the golf.

It was family.

Nick, Rami, and Leon arrived to spend a week aboard SeaDAN, turning the marina into a floating family vacation.

The group explored Broadway at the Beach, Barefoot Landing, the beach itself, and multiple putt-putt courses.

Leon especially became obsessed with mini golf.

PopStroke Myrtle Beach

One standout attraction was PopStroke, the Tiger Woods-backed putting complex at Broadway at the Beach.

With two full putting courses, food and drink service directly on the course, restaurants, playgrounds, and family-friendly entertainment, it quickly became a favorite stop for everyone.

Next Stop: The Chesapeake

With family visits winding down, Chris and Deb are now preparing to push farther north toward Norfolk and the Chesapeake Bay.

The plan is to move steadily through the next stretch before slowing down again to fully enjoy everything waiting farther north.

And if this leg of the trip proved anything, it’s that the best parts of the Great Loop continue to be the unexpected moments:

The dolphins beside the dinghy.
The strangers welcoming you into an anchorage.
The rough crossings that make calm nights sweeter.
And the family and friends memories made aboard SeaDAN along the way.

We’re back—and this time we decided to record from the bridge, which felt like a fitting upgrade for this stretch of the trip. Picking up from Amelia Island, we had to give one last shoutout to one of our favorite meals of the trip at Wicked Bao. It’s one of those spots you’d never find without a local tip, but wow—it delivered. The food was incredible, but honestly, what stood out most was the hospitality. The owner, Natalie, made it a point to personally connect with every table, and that kind of experience just sticks with you.

Crossing Into Georgia & A Little Boating Etiquette

From there, we officially crossed into Georgia—our first new state in quite a while—and made our way toward Brunswick Landing Marina. The trip itself had some excitement, including passing Naval Submarine Base Kings Bay (where we saw submarine degaussing coils—very cool) and dealing with a not-so-friendly wake from a speeding Coast Guard boat. Pro tip: slow passes matter out here. It’s just good boating etiquette.

Brunswick’s “Velcro Marina” Life

Brunswick turned out to be one of those places we didn’t expect to love as much as we did. The marina is known as a “Velcro Marina,” and now we get why—it’s incredibly social, super welcoming, and packed with perks like free laundry, happy hours, and a great community vibe. We explored downtown a bit, stopping at places like Spiral Wanderers Coffee Bar & Bookshop (which somehow combines coffee, books, and tattoos), Silver Bluff Brewing Company, and Reed’s Apothecary for dinner. We even squeezed in a round at The Sanctuary Golf Club, which ended up being one of the best courses we’ve played on the trip so far.

Anchoring Adventures & “Things That Fall in the Water”

After six days, we headed north again, dealing with fog delays, buggy marshes, and one very memorable anchoring moment where we accidentally launched a $120 windlass tool straight into the creek (yep… it’s still down there). We anchored overnight near St. Catherines Island in Walburg Creek, and it ended up being one of those perfect, peaceful nights where everything just worked—after a little troubleshooting, of course.

Hell’s Gate, Soft Groundings & Teamwork

The next day brought a couple of challenges, including a soft grounding near Ossabaw Island and navigating through the infamous “Hell’s Gate,” which definitely lives up to its reputation with narrow, shallow channels that require full teamwork. But we made it through and eventually arrived in Savannah, docking at IGY Savannah Harbor Marina.

Savannah: Worth the Stay (and Then Some)

Savannah ended up being a highlight. We spent time walking the Riverwalk, hopping on a trolley tour to get our bearings, and just soaking in the history and energy of the city. It’s one of those places where you could easily stay longer than planned—and honestly, we kind of did. The marina itself was top-notch—clean, modern, and incredibly welcoming—even if it meant a short ferry ride over to the historic downtown.

Hilton Head & A Bucket List Moment

From there, it was a quick hop into South Carolina and over to Hilton Head Island, where we’re currently docked at Harbour Town Yacht Basin. Pulling in by water instead of by car was such a cool full-circle moment for us, especially with the iconic lighthouse right in view.

And the timing couldn’t be better—we’re here during the RBC Heritage week, which has been on our bucket list for years. The plan is to anchor along the 18th hole and watch the tournament from the boat, which still feels a little surreal.

Final Thoughts from the Bridge

We’ve got golf lined up, family coming into town, and a full week ahead—but if this stretch of the Loop has taught us anything, it’s that the unexpected moments are usually the best ones. And maybe… just maybe… double check the anchor before you drop it.

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We’re officially on the move again, and it feels like we’re closing out our Florida chapter in the most “Great Loop” way possible — a mix of family time, fun stops, a few lessons learned, and some upgrades that are already making life easier on the boat. As we write this, we’re docked at Fernandina Beach Marina on Amelia Island, right on the edge of crossing into Georgia.

Before we leave Florida behind, we wanted to share a bit about this last stretch — because it really had a little bit of everything.

A Grandkid Adventure at LEGOLAND

One of the highlights of this leg was having Nick, Rami, and our grandson Leon come down to visit us. We decided to make a trip out of it and headed over to LEGOLAND Florida Resort, where we stayed at the LEGOLAND Pirate Island Hotel.

We’ll be honest — we expected this one to be very kid-focused. And it was… but it was also a lot of fun for us too. The rooms were pirate-themed and had a scavenger hunt built right in. We followed clues around the room that led to a treasure chest filled with snacks, drinks, and LEGO surprises. Leon thought that was pretty cool, and honestly, so did we.

The park itself had more to it than we expected, including an aquarium and an entire area with miniature cities built out of millions of LEGO bricks. It’s definitely one of those places that’s worth it if you’ve got kids with you — even if you’re just a kid at heart.

Winter Park: Wine, Steak, and Showing Off Loop Life

After we dropped the kids off at the airport, we turned right around and picked up Chris’s brother Todd and his wife Tammy. They’ve been on the boat before, but this was their first time actually traveling with us — which made it a lot of fun to share the experience.

We took them over to Winter Park and made a stop at The Wine Room on Park Avenue, which ended up being a really fun spot. You can sample wines right from the tap, so if you’re not sure what you like, you can just try a little bit of everything. We paired that with a charcuterie board and spent a good chunk of the afternoon there.

And then, of course, we had to go back to Bovine Steakhouse. We’d been there before, and the steak was just as good as we remembered. Some places are worth repeating.

Back to Boat Life: Manatees, Gators, and River Miles

Once we left the dock again, it was back into the rhythm of boating life.

Heading north, we passed near Blue Spring State Park, where we saw a ton of manatees. That meant slowing way down and having spotters up on the bow to make sure we didn’t get too close. It’s pretty incredible to see them in the wild like that.

We stopped for fuel at Holly Bluff Marina, and let’s just say… we didn’t fill up all the way. Diesel was pushing close to six dollars a gallon, so we took just enough to get where we needed to go.

One of the more memorable moments from that stretch was spotting an alligator along the bank. Todd actually got the drone up and captured some great footage — close enough that it ended up spooking the gator back into the water.

We anchored again near Morrison Island, which we’d stayed at before. Calm water, easy night… although we did manage to lose a fishing rod in the process. It happens. Thankfully, Amazon had us covered the next day.

Dock and Dine: One of Our Favorite Parts of the Loop

One thing we’ve really come to love about this journey is the dock-and-dine spots. This time, we stopped at Corky Bell’s Seafood, and it’s easy to see why it’s a favorite.

If you eat there, they let you stay overnight at the dock. Simple as that.

We had dinner, a couple of drinks, and enjoyed the outdoor patio. The alligator bites were actually really good, which isn’t always the case. If you go, our advice is to get there early. By the time we left, there was a line out the door.

Boat Life Upgrades in Jacksonville

When we got back to Jacksonville, we spent some time at Huckins Yacht Corporation knocking out a few projects.

We’ve got a soft spot developing on the bow that we’ll deal with later, but for now we focused on a few quality-of-life upgrades. We replaced the carpet in the bedroom with carpet tiles, which turned out great and feels much better underfoot.

But the biggest upgrade — and probably the most impactful — was switching to a vented washer and dryer combo. If you’ve ever used a non-vented one, you know the struggle. Clothes came out wrinkled and still damp, and we were spending way too much time at laundromats. The new one has already made a huge difference.

A Bucket List Stop: The Players Championship

While we were in Jacksonville, we also made time for something we’ve wanted to do for a while — we went to The Players Championship.

The weather couldn’t have been better. Mid-70s, sunny, no wind. We spent the whole day out there following the pros and just taking it all in. It was one of those days that reminds you why you’re doing this trip in the first place.

It also inspired our next plan — we’ve already booked time in Hilton Head during another tournament, and we’re hoping to anchor out near the 18th hole. That’s definitely on the bucket list.

Into the Intracoastal: Learning as We Go

Leaving Jacksonville and heading north, things started to feel a little different.

The Intracoastal up here is much narrower, with more curves and marshland on either side. Tides are a big factor too — we’re seeing swings of up to six feet, which means you really have to pay attention when anchoring and navigating.

Staying in the channel is critical. Just a little outside of it, and you can go from 12 feet of water to 4 feet pretty quickly.

We also ran into our first barge in this stretch. It’s a good reminder to get on the radio and communicate. We called them on channel 16, and they told us exactly how and when to pass. Those captains know the waterways better than anyone, and they’re more than willing to help.

Amelia Island Evenings

Once we got settled in Fernandina Beach, we took some time to explore.

We stopped in at The Palace Saloon, which is the oldest bar in Florida, and then had dinner at The Salty Pelican Bar & Grill.

Both were great stops, and like we’ve learned in a lot of these towns — timing matters. We got there early and didn’t have to wait, but by the time we left, there were people lined up outside.

What’s Next: Crossing into Georgia

Now we’re getting ready to head into Georgia, with stops planned in Brunswick and Savannah, before eventually making our way to Hilton Head Island.

We’ve heard great things about Brunswick — especially how protected and boater-friendly it is — so we’re looking forward to spending some time there.

Final Thoughts

This stretch really reminded us why we love doing the Loop.

It’s the mix of everything — having family visit, finding new favorite spots, dealing with the little frustrations, and figuring things out as we go. Florida gave us a little bit of all of it.

Now it’s time to see what Georgia has in store.

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Sanford, Florida — with a quick (very cold) detour to Cincinnati

Chris and Deb here — checking in after a whirlwind couple of weeks that somehow included Florida sunshine, a polar vortex, frozen hoses, alligators, golf, German beer, and almost losing a dinghy cover to 40-mile-an-hour winds.

You know… normal Loop life.

Life in Sanford, Florida

We’ve really fallen in love with Sanford, Florida. It’s got that college-town-meets-old-Florida vibe, a super walkable downtown, a great marina, and more restaurants than a town this size has any business having.

Since our last update, we’ve been:

• Practicing with the new drone (Santa was very good this year)
• Biking everywhere — and yes, pushing the bikes back up a very steep floating dock ramp because Lake Monroe is at a record low
• Sampling our way through downtown

One standout was dinner at The Old Jailhouse — literally inside a former jail. Bars still intact. You can actually eat inside what used to be a cell. Rustic, quirky, and very cool.

We’ve also made return trips to:

• Hollerbach’s Willow Tree Café — German band, giant beer steins, and the best potato pancakes around
• Sullivan Public House — they had Kilkenny on draft, which is a rare find
• Brewlando Sanford — solid chicken parmesan and a good local vibe

Sanford continues to prove you don’t need a huge city to eat well.

Overnight at Butcher’s Bend on the St. Johns River

We hadn’t taken the boat out in over a month, so when friends Ralph and Kathy came to visit from Palm Coast, we fired up the engines and headed across Lake Monroe and up the St. Johns River to Butcher’s Bend.

It was one of those magic Florida evenings:

• Glass-flat water
• Alligator sightings
• Manatee sightings
• Tons of birds
• Stars you can only see when there’s zero light pollution

We dropped anchor in 10–12 feet of water and didn’t budge all night. Those are the anchorages that remind you why you’re doing the Loop in the first place.

Golf in Palm Coast & LPGA

While in Palm Coast, we played:

• Palm Harbor Golf Club
• Grand Reserve Golf Club
• The Jones Course at LPGA International in Daytona Beach

The Jones Course was true links-style — massive greens, tricky reads, lots of sand. Very fair winter rates, very humbling outcomes. The courses weren’t at peak green color this time of year, but they were challenging and fun.

Winter Park: A Must-See

One day we rented a car (sometimes Uber math just doesn’t work) and headed down to Winter Park, Florida.

Winter Park feels like Old Money Florida:

• Brick-lined streets
• Upscale boutiques
• Beautiful restaurants
• A train station right downtown

We’re determined to try the SunRail next time — it runs from Sanford to Orlando and beyond, and you can even bring your bike onboard for a small fee.

We stumbled into Bovine’s Steakhouse (a lucky find), and it might have been one of the best steaks Chris has ever had — and that’s saying something.

Competitive Spirits at Topgolf

Because of course we found a Topgolf.

We spent a couple of hours there playing different games, talking trash (politely), and confirming that competitive golf does not take vacations.

When the Polar Vortex Hits Florida

Then winter showed up.

It dropped to 25° two nights in a row.

On a boat.

Things that froze:

• The water hose
• The water filtration system
• Dock lines — complete with icicles

The solution:

• Put the hose in the river to thaw
• Bring the filters inside
• Use the onboard water tank for showers and dishes
• Make a mental note for next time

If you’ve only ever lived in a house, you don’t really feel 40 mph winds the way you do on a boat. Everything flaps. Everything moves. Everything reminds you it’s floating.

The Great Dinghy Cover Incident

Captain Chris wisely put the dinghy cover on before the windstorm.

Deb woke him up from the couch and asked, “Did you take the cover off the dinghy?”

Nope.

It was gone.

After pricing replacements (in the $800–$900 range), we went searching the next morning. Thankfully, Chris had tied the cover off to the boat — something he doesn’t always do.

We pulled the line… and pulled… and pulled…

There it was. In the water. Muddy. Cold. But salvageable.

New rule:
Always tie the dinghy cover to the big boat.

What’s Next

We’re back in Cincinnati briefly (pool league and a birthday trip to Las Vegas), then heading back to the boat.

Coming up:

• Nick, Rami, and Leon visiting
• A trip to LEGOLAND Florida Resort in Winter Haven
• Todd and Tammy cruising north with us
• Heading back up the St. Johns River toward Jacksonville

And then, if timing works out, we’d love to be near Hilton Head Island during the RBC Heritage at Harbour Town Golf Links — maybe even anchored near the lighthouse at 18. That’s definitely bucket-list territory.

A Great Loop Update from Sanford, Florida

If you’ve been following along on our Great Loop adventure, you know one thing for sure—our timeline has been… flexible. Between hurricanes, extended stays in places we loved a little too much (looking at you, Florida Keys), and some strategic weather dodging, our journey has taken a few unexpected turns. And honestly? We wouldn’t have it any other way.

Right now, we’re tied up at the Downtown Sanford Marina along the St. Johns River just north of Orlando. It’s January, the engines are enjoying a rare freshwater break, and while much of the East Coast is shivering, we’re golfing in the sunshine and cruising brick-lined streets on e-bikes. Not a bad place to pause the Loop for a couple of months.

A Quick Loop Recap (For New Crew Members)

We kicked off this Loop adventure back in 2022, ran headfirst into hurricane delays, then spent last year hugging Florida’s coast and soaking up three glorious months in the Keys. From there, we worked our way north to Jacksonville, laid low during hurricane season (ironically a quiet one), and knocked out some boat projects along the way.

When December brought colder temps up north, we pivoted. Instead of continuing up the coast, we turned south—up the St. Johns River—which somehow runs north to south—and landed in Sanford. Freshwater cruising, milder temps, and a town with way more personality than we expected made this detour an easy decision.

Sanford: Small Town, Big Personality

Sanford feels like a college town… without the college. Cobblestone streets, brick buildings, an active riverwalk, and more bars and restaurants than you’d expect packed into a very walkable downtown. It’s safe, diverse, and buzzing with something happening almost every day—parades, festivals, car shows, live music, you name it.

One highlight was the Central Florida Zoo & Botanical Gardens, especially their seasonal Asian Lantern Festival. At night, the zoo transforms with glowing lanterns, moving light displays, and just enough whimsy to make it feel magical without being overwhelming.

Favorite Downtown Stops

• Buster’s Bistro
  German-inspired comfort food, excellent Reubens and French dips, a dog-friendly patio, and a great beer list.
• Wop’s Hops Brewing Company
  A cozy local brewery with a laid-back vibe that’s perfect for an easy afternoon stop.
• Ellen’s Wine Room
  Right across the street, with comfort food, wine flights, and locals who love sharing insider tips about town.

Daytona: Fast Cars, Flat Beaches, and a Surprise Lake

Having a rental car gave us the freedom to explore beyond e-bike range, so we headed east to Daytona International Speedway. The VIP tour was an absolute highlight—even if you’re not a hardcore race fan.

Standing at field level, the steeply banked turns rise nearly four stories high. We toured the fan zone, visited the museum packed with racing history, stood where the spotters work, and learned there’s even a four-acre bass-filled lake hidden inside the track.

We also came back during the lead-up to the Rolex 24 at Daytona, a 24-hour endurance race that weaves through the infield road course and back onto the oval.

Daytona Area Stops

• Hard Rock Hotel Daytona Beach
  Oceanfront and convenient to both the Speedway and nearby golf courses.
• Grand Reserve Golf Club
  A public course with a surprisingly strong country-club social scene and live music.
• ONE DAYTONA
  A walkable retail and dining district across from the Speedway, including PF Chang’s and plenty of people-watching.

Dinghy Day Turns Into Gator Day

One afternoon, we took the dinghy out to scout another marina that offers diesel fuel—important since we’ll need to top off before heading back north. What started as a peaceful cruise quickly turned into a full Florida moment when we passed a bright yellow “Gator Crossing” sign… and then saw the gator.

This one was massive—easily the size of our 15-foot dinghy. Add in a few more alligator sightings near the docks and one particularly focused gator tracking us on the return trip, and we officially checked “close wildlife encounter” off the list.

Boat Projects, Golf Rounds, and Local Finds

While staying put, we’ve also tackled a few boat projects—resealing the shower, upgrading bow chairs, and refreshing our upholstery.

• Three Lions Upholstery
  Excellent craftsmanship, professional service, and seats that look brand new.

More local favorites include Swamp House Grill right on the river and Blend & Barrel, a classy bourbon and cigar bar with a beautiful interior (and very effective smoke).

Between car shows, parades, festivals, and live music, Sanford has yet to deliver a quiet weekend.

What’s Next on the Loop

With calm weather ahead, we’re planning a short cruise back up the river to top off diesel, run the engines, and anchor out for a couple of nights. We’ve also added a DJI drone to the onboard toolkit, so aerial footage is officially coming soon—assuming it doesn’t end up making friends with the river.

Follow Along

If you’re listening to the podcast, be sure to subscribe to our website where we’re building an interactive map of our route, including marinas, anchorages, golf courses, restaurants, and side trips. You’ll also find photos and videos that bring each stop to life.

Have questions about Sanford, the St. Johns River, or any of the stops along the way? Reach out—we’re always happy to share what we’ve learned.

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St. Johns River, Sanford, and the Joy of Letting the Loop Wander

Hello friends — Chris and Deb checking in from SeaDan, where one week somehow managed to hold a boatyard victory lap, a jungle river adventure, and a brand-new place that already feels like home.

When we last checked in, SeaDan was on the hard in Jacksonville, getting some much-needed love after stress fractures showed up on the swim platform. A huge shout-out to Brooks and Thad at Huckins Yacht Corporation on the St. Johns River. Their craftsmanship, fiberglass work, and attention to detail were outstanding. Huckins has been around a long time, and it shows — not just in their skills, but in the pride they take in keeping boats right.

Jacksonville: Food, Fairways, and Football

Because the boat stayed put from August through early December, we had time to really settle into Jacksonville — and it surprised us in all the best ways.

We found favorites downtown like River & Post (and its St. Augustine sibling, Fort & Post), and spent a lot of time in Avondale, a historic neighborhood full of boutique shops, cobblestone streets, big Southern homes, and great food. Bluefish Restaurant, European Street Café, and even a hookah bar called Casbah Café made the rotation. No hookah for us, but excellent food and atmosphere.

Golf became a theme, too. TPC Sawgrass was the bucket-list highlight, but we also loved Bent Creek Golf Course and the World Golf Village courses — especially Slammer & Squire. There’s just something special about playing well-kept courses surrounded by history while moving slowly through the Loop.

And yes — we even caught a Jacksonville Jaguars game. We’re still Bengals fans at heart, but grabbing end-zone seats, soaking up a Duval crowd, and watching a jet flyover made for a memorable Sunday.

Fixing the Plane (Literally)

One lingering mystery from earlier in the trip was SeaDan’s reluctance to get up on plane. At Huckins, we tackled it head-on: new air filters, prop speed on all the running gear, and a thorough once-over. The result? Back on plane at 23–24 knots like she was meant to be. Problem solved — and a huge relief.

The Itch to Move Again

After Thanksgiving back home and a delayed but wonderful trip to Punta Cana with friends, we returned to Jacksonville in early December planning to wait until January before heading south on the St. Johns River.

But then we looked at the weather.

Clear forecasts. Calm winds. And that familiar Loop itch.

So we untied the lines on December 11 and pointed SeaDan inland.

The St. Johns River: Our Favorite Side Trip Yet

This river surprised us completely. Deep, wide, calm, and winding through swamps and old Florida landscapes, the St. Johns River felt wild and peaceful all at once. We meandered past manatees, spotted alligators, anchored under stars, and crossed Lake George on glass-smooth water with the channel markers guiding us straight through.

We stayed at a free dock near Palatka, anchored near Morrison Island, and then dropped the hook at Blue Spring State Park — a place that honestly felt like stepping into Jurassic Park. Jungle-thick shoreline. Absolute stillness. Manatees everywhere. While FaceTiming Nick, we spotted our first alligator lounging on the bank. Mission accomplished.

Blue Spring is also accessible by land, with boardwalks and observation decks overlooking crystal-clear, warm spring water that draws manatees all winter. It’s protected this time of year, and for good reason — there are so many manatees it’s hard to believe until you see it.

Sanford: A Place We Didn’t Expect to Love (But Do)

Our final leg brought us to Sanford Municipal Marina, just ahead of a strong north wind that arrived two hours after we tied up. Perfect timing.

From the moment we arrived, we knew Sanford, Florida was special. Luke and Cody met us at the dock, helped us settle in, and made us feel instantly welcome. Neighbors introduced themselves. Stories started flowing. One of those marinas where community shows up fast.

Sanford itself is a gem — historic brick buildings, cobblestone streets, breweries, theaters, antique shops, and a 17-mile paved riverwalk looping around Lake Monroe. We took the e-bikes to the Central Florida Zoo & Botanical Gardens one day (small, charming, and heavy on reptiles — as it should be), then followed that with beers at Deviant Wolfe Brewing and Celery City Craft, housed in an old fire station and jail.

We also found Hollerbach’s German Restaurant — excellent Reubens, a full German market and bakery, and plenty of reasons to return.

A Little Pause Before the Next Chapter

SeaDan will stay here through January and February while we head home for the holidays — chasing our grandson Leon, maybe sneaking in some skiing, and enjoying time with family. Then it’s back south in early January to continue exploring the St. Johns River before turning north up the East Coast.

That’s the magic of the Loop. Plans exist — but the best moments come from listening to the weather, following curiosity, and letting the journey bend a little.

Thanks for following along. If you’re anywhere near the St. Johns, the East Coast, or the Great Lakes next year, let’s reconnect — dockside drink or round of golf encouraged.

Until next time,
Fair winds,
Chris & Deb

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Hello friends — it’s Chris and Deb checking in from Cincinnati, with a story that loops back to where this whole adventure began. On Columbus Day, we hopped in the car and headed down to Ripley, Ohio — to the little river camp on the Ohio River where our Great Loop dream first took shape more than 30 years ago.

We had that camp for 11 years, raising the kids on weekends full of tubing, water-skiing, fishing, and campfires. It’s hardly changed — the same quiet docks, the same A-frame next door, even the same old boat ramp where I once broke my ankle. Standing there again, it hit us how this whole loop really started as a family weekend on the river.

Storms, Cars, and Classic Cadillacs

When we last left off, we were in St. Augustine, dodging thunderstorms and renting a car to explore. That detour led us to the Classic Car Museum, a time capsule of American design — from 1950s Bel Airs and pink-finned Cadillacs to horse-drawn stagecoaches.

Afterward we found ourselves at The Ice Plant, a Prohibition-style bar we’d discovered on a hop-on-hop-off tour. Great cocktails, vintage ambiance, and the perfect hideaway from the rain. Upstairs, a French fine-dining spot offered tiny portions for big prices — but it made for a memorable night before we hit the road again.

North to Jacksonville Beach

Monday was move day — we cruised under the Bridge of Lions and made our way north to Palm Cove Marina in Jacksonville Beach. The houses along the ocean side were stunning, and the marina itself turned out to be a gem.

One unexpected highlight: meeting Jim Loudenslager, a master club-builder who’s been fitting clubs for the pros for half a century. We wandered into his shop looking for golf shoes and left with new custom sets — and a new friend.

Dinner that night was at Marker 32, a local favorite perched on the water. We grabbed two bar stools, struck up conversation with the couple beside us, and after a bottle of wine discovered the man was none other than a former pianist for Lynyrd Skynyrd — who’d also opened for the Rolling Stones. Only on the Loop do you stumble into nights like that.

Sawgrass: A Bucket-List Swing

From Palm Cove, we followed the St. Johns River to Huckins Boatyard, a deep-water stretch where we could finally relax without worrying about shallow channels. The next morning brought a true milestone — tee times at TPC Sawgrass.

Playing the legendary 17th-hole island green has been on my list forever. Neither Deb nor I landed the green (hers kissed the wall; mine veered left), but the experience was unforgettable. The course was quiet, stripped of the tournament crowds, and we even spotted two bald eagles and a snake near the cart path.

We ended the day with dinner in the clubhouse surrounded by decades of golf history — and met a young player from Paris, Tom D. Harry Pond, practicing for the junior tournament the next day. Watching him stripe drives reminded us how timeless the game really is.

On the Hard (and at Home)

C-DAN is currently on the hard at Huckins, getting her swim platform repaired after a few stress fractures from the dinghy crane. The crew’s got her in good hands, and we’ll check back next week when she’s ready to float again.

For now, we’re soaking up fall in Ohio — our favorite season — playing plenty of golf, chasing our grandson Leon, and watching the leaves change. Once the holidays wrap up, we’ll dive into the next leg of the Loop full speed ahead.

Looking Ahead

Starting in January, we’ll be exploring the St. Johns River, one of the few rivers in North America that flows south to north. It’s lined with hidden coves, old paddle-boat docks, and (supposedly) alligators we still haven’t spotted. We’re eager to launch the dinghy and explore side trips along the way before heading up the East Coast.

We’ll post our month-by-month itinerary soon — if you’re near the coast or the Great Lakes next year, we’d love to reconnect over a dockside drink or a round of golf.

Until then, thanks for following along. From the Ohio River to Sawgrass greens, we’re reminded just how far this dream has drifted — and how close it still feels to home.

Fair winds,
Chris & Deb

Fort Pierce, FL

First up: Fort Pierce—easy vibes, friendly docks, instant boat friends. On an e‑bike run and a “dive watch battery” errand, Deb fell for a bracelet… and Chris made it happen. Romance points unlocked.
Food find: the super‑casual, super‑tasty 12A Buoy.

Learning moment #1 (a biggie!): Always wash brand‑new towels/bathing suits before they touch vinyl—rain + fresh dye turned the white captain’s chairs navy. The sun is slowly bleaching it, but… oof.

Dinghy day delivered: they zipped over to the excellent National Navy SEAL Museum (small but mighty) and then beached the dinghy at local legend Little Jim Bait & Tackle for pizza, cold drinks, and “we live here now” vibes.

PGA detour: Port St. Lucie

Because balance is important: a hot, challenging loop at the PGA Golf Club’s Wanamaker Course. Pair hydration with humility. 😅

Titusville, FL

They timed this stop perfectly—watched a rocket launch from the bow and then spent a full, kid‑in‑a‑candy‑store day at the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. Shuttle Atlantis! Rocket Garden! Big feelings!

Marina notes: “great people, aging docks.” Also: know your shore power. When the pedestal could only deliver 208V, their onboard 50A/240V setup kept tripping. Result: generator nights, adventure days.

Bites & sips: waterfront Pier 220 and a surprise-favorite wine bar (OVino) plus a hardware‑turned‑brewery hang—then a cameo from modern tech: new friends summoned their Tesla to valet itself over. Boat people meet car people; everyone wins.

New Smyrna Beach, FL

A pretty cruise north through a wildlife‑packed canal—manatees, dolphins, spoonbills—and yes, people riding horses belly‑deep in the water. Docked near Outriggers Tiki Bar & Grill and explored vintage‑cute Flagler Avenue. Dinner on the Atlantic: views > menu, but the Zen‑moment beach photo was 10/10.

Daytona Beach (drive‑by)

Skirted dredgers, expected chaos… got calm seas. Sometimes Sunday behaves.

Palm Coast, FL

Quick fuel‑and‑go stop with a gem just 10 minutes away: European Village, a courtyard ringed with restaurants and bars. Pasta night at Mezzaluna Pizzeria sealed the deal.

St. Augustine, FL

Home base for a few days at the St. Augustine Municipal Marina, right by the Bridge of Lions. Think cobblestones, courtyards, and architecture with swagger—Flagler College, Spanish facades, and marble lions carved from the same quarry as Michelangelo’s David.
Do‑it‑all pass: two‑day hop‑on‑hop‑off with Old Town Trolley Tours.
History hit: the star‑shaped Castillo de San Marcos, built of shell‑packed coquina that shrugs off cannon fire.

Storm dodge: bikes + lightning = emergency bar stop. Approved.

Bonus bucket‑list: tee times at TPC Sawgrass—hello, island green at 17. Gulp.

See you guys next week!